So it is with
backpackers today, and I regrettably have to include myself in their
ranks, despite my protestations to the contrary at the time. It was
what I was doing. When I first went to Cambodia, for example, it was
largely because it was about as dissimilar a place from my
middle-class, middlebrow, Middle-American hometown as I could
imagine. I wanted to go someplace where the veil would be lifted.
I was in Satun
Province, in the far south of Thailand, where I was to spend time
with the Sakai, the indigenous forest pygmies of the Malayan
Peninsula. Looking nothing like the surrounding peoples –
ebony-skinned, with tightly curled hair, closer in appearance to New
Guineans than East Asians, they lived in a somewhat fugitive state,
trying, with limited success, to preserve the lifeways of their
ancestors.
Giggling
Thai schoolchildren whispered and took photos. Which was gross, but
not nearly as gross as the fact that the village was filled with our
shit. Plastic 7-Eleven bags, the butts of cheap Thai Tobacco
Monopoly-branded cigarettes, crumpled toilet paper.
Repeat for Myanmar, Cambodia, the Philippines, Mexico.
This is the pattern of the Global South, as seen time and time again.
Despite the vast differences in geography and religion, a certain
typology emerges.
Barking dogs and roosters pecking at the ground, young men squatting
close to the dirt, pausing in the day's work, tossed-aside cups of
instant noodles, adorable children with dark eyes and skinny legs
laughing and playing and running around in broken rubber sandals,
flickering TVs playing the sort of broad-stroke entertainment beloved
throughout the less irony-damaged parts of the world (the soap operas
and variety shows that Americans have long-since eschewed in favor of
pre-hated reality shows), men with bruised faces wearing t-shirts
advertising Harley-Davidson dealerships in San Antonio, old women
chewing something mysterious, plastic bottles filled with local
hooch, the cinder-block homes of wealthier residents, and the
universal smell of burning waste on a hot day, bamboo and coconut
shells and firewood mingled with polystyrene.
Critics
of globalization like to claim that late capitalism engenders a
monoculture, a Shake Shack on every continent, what the French like
to call “coca-colonization.” I've always been rather skeptical of
that argument – while every local pattern of life is going to be
inevitably altered, it's not necessarily going to mean that
everything is going to look like a third-ring suburb of Chicago.
Rather, if there is a monoculture resulting from globalization, this
is what it looks like.
As rates of profit tend to fall, the forces of capital inevitably
need to seek markets deeper and deeper into the Global South, and
ideally add a few hundred million to the reserve army of labor. This
isn't development along the Japanese or Korean model, where rural
regions were developed with intelligent, long-term planning. This is
the vulgarity of rent-seeking, regulatory capture, predatory lending
from both institutions in the Western world as well as local loan
sharks, the hand-greasing and wholesale buyout of local politicians,
hell, whole states. Of ceaseless exploitation of natural and human
resources with absolutely no consideration given as to who that
affects and in what way.
If birthrates and economic patterns are anything to go by, then this
will be a truer representation of our planetary future, by and large,
than anything else: an empty sachet of Nescafe on a burning fire in
the steamy tropical dawn.