Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Mark Fisher and the Haunted Present

In 2017, Mark Fisher took his own life. This was something that was little-noted at the time. Like all too many people, it was only in death that he got the renown he deserved, especially outside his native Britain. 


Like most people, I was late to the party. I only read his landmark work, Capitalist Realism, last year, and found it to be a flawed but ultimately prescient book that described so much of the contemporary cultural landscape, even if obliquely. And it was just recently that I read Ghosts of My Life, a collection of essays on politics, music, film, and literature that describes our cultural landscape so perfectly, less through any kind of overarching vision than by hitting various touchstones, each of them with an elegant and precise critical eye.

If there is a theme, it's his notion of hauntology, a term he cribbed from Jacques Derrida, whom he admits is a frankly impenetrable writer, but which can loosely be described as a nostalgia for a time when a future seemed possible. In a world of incipient climate change, increasing global political uncertainty, and an economic recovery that seems tenuous at best, we are ultimately haunted by the futures that could have been.

This seems like a pretty abstract, even abstruse notion. And yet the more I think about it, the more I have to conclude that we live in an essentially hauntological era.

What we as a public are offered as a route forward is cold comfort. Neoliberal capitalism seems to suggest that progress is purely therapeutic, with physical wellness, self-care, positivity, and mindfulness offered as personal panaceas, an Instagram mentality that means next to fucking nothing when you look at how little is in your bank account. The only social thought given is a sort of woke neoliberalism in which it doesn't matter if you're gay, trans, whatever, as long as you keep buying, keep clicking. In which public shaming of the problematic and cancel culture are the only accessible avenues of justice.

Meanwhile, reactionary ideologies in the form of Trumpian conservatism, Putinist traditionalism, Salafist Islam, and Hindu nationalism allow for a sort of cathartic, collective rage, permitting solidarity, so long as that solidarity is done in the name of the oppression of others. And on the eastern edge of the Asian continent, Xi Jinping's China and Singapore under the People's Action Party (along with authoritarian governments in Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Philippines, as well as the essentially-colonized petits régimes in Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar) marry exploitative economic theories with brutal political repression and icily efficient technocracy, suggesting that the only way out of the world's current quandaries is through state capitalism.

What Fisher suggests is emphatically not that the past was better (we all know it wasn't), but that the hope that the future would be more enlightened, more rational, more equitable has been decimated. The examples he cites include the music released on the Ghost Box label (Belbury Poly, The Focus Group, etc.) with its samples from 1970s educational films and hypnotic analog synths, or William Basinski's The Disintegration Loops, a series of minimalist electronic samples played on modern machinery until they quite literally destroyed themselves as they played.


This same hauntology, Fisher believes, is found in older media too – in films like Memento and The Shining, in '90s jungle music, in the novels of J.G. Ballard which show the human tendency towards base violence triumphing over technological intervention, in the Joy Division albums made when Britain seemed to be teetering on the brink of collapse.

And I see it in the contemporary trends towards ambient music and lo-fi hip-hop. Being an American, my points of reference are more likely to be Ariel Pink, Danny Brown, Death Grips, Laurel Halo, Earl Sweatshirt, Chromatics, or SZA, all of whom seem like their frantically trying to assemble something out of the disused, analog bits of a not-too-distant past. Or in the viscerally disgusting and eerily familiar VHS world of Adult Swim shows like Tim and Eric, or the work of filmmakers like Panos Cosmatos, Nicholas Winding Refn, and Alex Garland who conjure up the imagery of '60s and '70s sci-fi.

 

You could say I'm cherry-picking examples from my own cultural sphere. But isn't it a major feature of the top of the charts too? Really, what's that different about The Weeknd, Drake, or Lana Del Rey, and all of their pop songs composed of distorted fragments of past hopes? Or all the Soundcloud rappers for who try to palliate their anxiety with Xanax and MDMA, only to be left as isolated and fucked up as ever? What's different about the way that young-adult dystopian novels and their filmed versions depict the tragedy of inheriting a world in which promise has been destroyed?

When there is hope, it exists purely in the realm of the magical, the unknowable. We watch Marvel movies because hope on our Earth seems so alien, witchiness and astrology trend because the world around us seems so grim, and mediocre young men buy into the Jordan Peterson bullshit because his brand of pop-Jungianism seems to give them a secret code, and gives them any easy target for blame in feminists and academic postmodernists.

People still have their dreams, after all.

And the horror of the failed present is never stated outright, it is merely alluded to. It is haunted. 

It strikes me as no coincidence that the last golden age of the ghost story was in the late 19th Century. It was likewise a time of ultimate transition, as the Western world moved from an agricultural to an industrial basis of production, as the urban proletariat became cemented as an entity, as the basis for empire-building were transformed from a primitive, irrational desire for brute conquest to a coldly rational expansion of state and market power.

And in our new Gilded Age, we too are surrounded by ghosts.

Tuesday, June 4, 2019

Let's Talk About Why Netflix's "Street Food" Sucks

I always give TV shows I watch five episodes to prove themselves. There is so little time on this planet, and especially little time to do the things I love, and so life is too short for The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. I know that many members of my rough age cohort are less forgiving, but I figure five episodes should give the creators some time to prove themselves, and prove the worth of their characters or plots.

After finishing season 3 of Fargo (which slaps, by the way), I moved onto Netflix's latest venture into becoming the Xhamster of food porn, Street Food. I was interested, not just because I'm an enthusiast for street food the world over, but also because the first episode featured the current doyenne of my adopted city of Bangkok's street-food scene, Jay Fai, queen of the crab omelette.

I should have known what I was getting myself into. You know exactly how everything's gonna go down. Start with a dramatic drone shot of an exotic Asian landscape or a vaguely cyberpunk Asian cityscape, all fluorescent-lit slums and smog-spewing scooters, and then zoom into a market scene of chickens in bamboo cages, elderly women beaming over ropes of garlic. You'll have the local food expert (most likely speaking in English) championing the working-class vendor (most likely speaking in their native language), followed by the inevitable story of personal struggle -- child abuse, poverty, beloved fathers dying of cancer, addiction in the family -- with the vendor eventually tearing up, cameras gleefully rolling.


By and large, food TV is designed to be comfort food in every sense of the word. And to watch it is an act of passive consumption, also in every sense of the word. The high-class version is designed as a marveling at the exoticism and luxuriousness of the products, lurid shots of immaculate sea urchin, the riotous colors of a bowl of Singaporean laksa, a Provençal grandmother lovingly making an aioli in a mortar and pestle. Conversely, the low-class version is a fat fuck shoveling triple cheeseburgers topped with crispy pork belly, gorgonzola, and foie gras into his goateed mouth to guitar riffs (and you can probably guess which fat fuck I'm alluding to here), or some polite, chipper woman with a Colgate smile crafting chemically enhanced product-placement atrocities out of Cool Ranch Doritos and frozen gnocchi.

When there is anything that disrupts the comfort, it's either giddy reality-TV drama of the sort accompanied by dramatic judges' table sound effects (the last place where vocal synths are still used without irony) or maudlin descriptions of personal tragedy. You know, prepackaged feels -- just add water.

Of course, the producers could address how the personal setbacks and disasters reflect social realities and the often unspeakable poverty of urban-slum Southeast Asia. They come, at various points, annoying close to actually saying something -- they could actually open the discussion a bit, and talk even for a minute about the wealth gap in Thailand, religious tensions in India, or the fact that Suharto, who's mentioned as a big fan of the vendor in the Indonesia episode, oversaw the murder of one million fucking people -- but that would be a buzzkill, so any kind of larger issue is barely even mentioned in passing. Jiro Dreams of Sushi, perhaps the glossiest, most opulent food porn ever made, took a beat to discuss how Japan's rapacious appetite for fish was draining the ocean, and placed a critical emphasis on the pressures placed on sons in traditional Japanese society. But in Street Food, nope, instead you just have the tear-jerker story, the actual tears, followed shortly thereafter by the story of individual triumph, told with swelling strings and slow-motion, high-definition onions sizzling in a wok.

The great lie is that we live in the "golden age of television." Sure, The Sopranos ushered in a new era of high quality television liberated from network standards-and-practices doofuses, and likewise liberated from the time constraints of conventional cinema, and I love The Wire, Mad Men, and all the rest just as much as everyone else does. But as more and more shows compete for the "prestige" audience -- including the "prestige documentary" audience, the Wild Wild Country and The Jinx audience -- the result is more and more recycling of prestige tropes instead of actually good television. You get tired, recycled material -- shows like House of Cards and Making a Murderer – that are filmed beautifully, but which have no originality of purpose, no meaningful content, no soul, as sterile and as packaged and as focus-grouped as brands of detergent.

Street Food fits firmly into this rubric. It's like they took the more provocative, more imaginatively produced, more socially conscious food programming pioneered by Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, and Eddie Huang, and turned it into a garish, melodramatic parody. Regrettably, as occurs whenever I encounter any kind of low-caliber creative work, it makes me question whether the things it's imitating were any good to begin with.

This is where I would normally implore you, the reader, to go out and eat some good street food for yourself, and in Bangkok, this is a luxury that we take as a given. My one, sole, remaining hope is that decent food programming actually inspires viewers to go out and explore, but I know full well that the vast majority of viewers who are watching a sushi maestro place a single pristine piece of mitsuba on a glistening pile of salmon roe will be staring at their flat-screen between swigs of Pepsi Max, their television the sole source of light in their living room as the sun goes down, the pixels reflecting off of the half-eaten Chipotle burrito on the glass-top coffee table.

This may sound like a cheap shot, but it's not intended to be one at You the Consumer (and certainly not a shot at the street vendors of the world, bless their souls) so much as Them the Producers. I can't blame people for wanting a bit of escapism, after all, we all do (however that may manifest itself), but I also know that anything this brutally symptomatic of late-stage capitalism is bound to depress the hell out of me. And now that I've watched my five episodes, I'm ready to move on.